J. Inder Singh Kalra, universally known as Jiggs Kalra, who died on June 4 at the age of 72, can be called a pioneer in the popularization of Indian cuisine. His son Zorawar Kalra, who started many popular restaurants such as Farzi Cafe and Pa Pa Ya, called him a “legend” and a “mentor and hero”. in a social media post.
Jiggs delved deep into the country’s myriad culinary traditions, unearthing long-forgotten recipes, rediscovering ingredients that had vanished from everyday use, and tracking down chefs who still practiced these techniques. He made it his mission to document these discoveries and was passionate about letting the world know that there is more to Indian cuisine than butter chicken, biryani and fatty curries.
The galouti kebab, now a staple in many restaurants, was virtually unknown until Jiggs introduced it to restaurants. Many of the dishes came from ancient royal families, guarded for generations. Although he was not a chef, his knowledge of cooking techniques was encyclopedic.
Honors followed and he became the first Asian to be included in the International Food and Beverage Hall of Fame. He has represented India in several food festivals and summits.
Journalist turned food writer and entrepreneur, Jiggs brought these kitchens to the public’s attention, and some of his discoveries became huge hits. One of them was dum pukht, a style of slow cooking that created subtle dishes well known in Awadh. ITC Welcomgroup Hotels, where Jiggs was a consultant, opened a restaurant by that name and it’s still going strong. One of the style’s greatest practitioners was chef Imtiaz Qureshi, whom Jiggs helped turn into a star. Unlike now, where the chefs are celebrities, at one time they were hidden away in hotel kitchens. Kalra brought them into the public spotlight.
Jiggs Kalra began his career as a journalist with India’s Illustrated Weekly under Khushwant Singh in the 1970s. He was later sent by Singh to Delhi to help Maneka Gandhi launch his magazine Surya. Even then, he was interested in food and eventually quit journalism to pursue writing and food consulting.
Likening himself to a detective, he traveled the country for ideas and co-wrote Prashad: cooking with Indian masters, a book full of recipes from across the country. Often the dishes required multiple recipes and shortcuts were discouraged. It has become a reference book not only for families in India but also all over the world. Kalra often said that he was pleasantly surprised to hear people tell him that they had discovered something about their own food that they never knew.
Some of his other books were Classic Punjabi Cuisine and Classic Rajasthani cuisine.
As I discovered on more than one occasion, a meal with Jiggs was an elaborate ritual. Guests weren’t supposed to suggest anything, let alone order. He took over the proceedings, often demanding sample tastings of many dishes before moving on to the main course, at which time no one could eat. Each dish was lovingly explained, with its history, provenance and even its health benefits. His reputation was such that in restaurants, chefs were only too happy to accommodate him, cooking dishes just the way he wanted. The guests left not only satiated but also better informed.
This was at a time when Indian cooking and food writing were not as widespread as they are today. In the pre-liberalization era of the 1980s and early 1990s, stand-alone restaurants were rare and only five-star hotels had specialty restaurants. At the time, it was difficult to convince even newspapers and magazines to give food writing space, but Jiggs managed to break through, paving the way for generations to come. His stroke in 2000 left him debilitated and he was unable to take full advantage of the many platforms available today, or obtain the funding to open his own restaurant back then, although he eventually opened the Masala library chain.
But, in the 80s and 90s, for major hotel chains, he was an invaluable resource that could spark new ideas and create winning properties and dishes. Taking advantage of the lifting of import restrictions, he is experimenting with new fusions like a tandoori salmon tikka, which is a best-seller.
His legacy was passed on through his son Zorawar, who, aided by his father’s ideas, opened restaurants in Delhi, Mumbai and Dubai. He leaves behind his wife Lovejeet and his sons Zorawar and Ajit.
